Starting To Open
Opening
A clean, elegant, patented design engineered to perform in demanding environments.
On tilt-up doors, one-third of the doorframe slides
back into the building when open, similar to old style
garage doors! The doors cylinders are attach to the
side of the doorframe. The door is guided by a
set of rollers that go along for the ride, guiding/
balancing the doorframe back into the building
which results in the loss of valuable headroom!
Some manufacturers have created an alternative
by building a hydraulic door similar to the old style
garage doors without hinges. The door, when open,
rolls back into the building structure, resulting in loss
of valuable headroom, and it has moving parts, push slides,
cam-rollers, and cam-tracks. The door, when open, teeters on
two pivot pins and the cam-rollers ride in a track that protrudes
back into your building.
The door also has (2) pins that support the door when it is in the open position as well as when
it is closed. These two pins are seeing most, if not all of the load. These two pins are all that
would be taking the load during a wind event when the door is closed.
Tilt up doors can experience sealing issues due to weather stripping damage, door misalignment, or problems
with the bottom seal. These issues can lead to air and moisture infiltration.
Tilt-up doors make it difficult to seal out the elements. Elements such as water, dirt, wind and snow can blow in and capture the heat in the cold months and air conditioniong in the hot months
Tilt-up Doors open to the inside of the structure. When the tilt-up door is in the fully open position, one third of the door slides back into the building similar to the old style garage doors — losing valuable headroom! Tilt-up doors obstruct valuable inside space when open and utilize a cam mechanism that travels within a framework, reducing headroom space inside the building structure. This costs you valuable headroom and space you paid for, in addition to blocking interior lighting!
No Hinges To Secure The Door
Lose Headroom
Almost impossible to create
a weather tight seal.
“The headroom loss from a tilt-up door as compared
to a Hydraulic door type was a deal breaker for me.”
Gain Headroom
Hinges Secure The Door
Gain Headroom
Schweiss doors seal tight
Both doors have top hinges that secure the doorframe
Tilt-Up Doors roll back into the
building creating an obstruction
when in the open position
Hingeless doors do not provide as much shade and will cover your lights inside the building when door is open!
Blocks inside lighting
Lose valuable inside space
Blocks cranes and hoists
Door hangs over vehicles, airplanes and equipment.
But, does the door sag down when open
or not open all the way?
“Why am I not getting
the clear opening I was
promised?”
“Is there
something wrong?”
It is clear that when you study the reaction and load information...
that a tilt-up door exerts considerable loads on the building in all load cases.
The holes in the sheeting need to be caulked around the center truss if you don't want water leaking in your building...
An external doors truss mounts near the center of the doorframe. When cladding/sheeting the door, the sheeting is notched/cut out around the center truss brackets. They need to be caulked to keep moisture out!
The doors lie flat in the open position. The nature of the door design does not allow water to flow off when open.
A hingeless doorframe sits in-between two columns. As the door opens it lifts up and floats inward simultaneously. The door requires a gap on each side with at least enough clearance for the doorframe to tilt back into the building as it opens! The gap on each side needs to be sealed! The doors are typically 1.5" to 3" narrower on each side of the framed opening!
Customer must factor in what the additional footing cost will be adding to the cost of the door.
Tilt-up doors require special footings - Hidden expense...
Additional footings and Anchor Bolts must support the door in all positions.
With a tilt-up style door containing no hinges, you get less stability. There are no fixed connections to the doorframe other than a cylinder on each side of the doorframe. These cylinders do not pull the door downward, it just floats downward. Even the least amount of snow or debris under the doorframe or a frost heave on the outside ramp will result in the bottom of the doorframe sitting slanted and not level with the floor. When a door just floats down instead of being powered down by its cylinders and pump, the bottom seals cannot do an adequate job of sealing the door in the closed position. This creates a gap on one side and a tighter fit on the other side resulting in an open gap or crack that will allow daylight, dust, dirt, and snow to blow inside your building or even unwanted rodents to come inside.
The cylinders on these style doors that raise and lower the door are connected to a pin that is cantilevered off each side of the doorframe. Both pins and rollers carry the entire weight and loads of the door. These doors have two support points and two guide rollers!
By design, tilt-up doors do not contact the side columns, leaving a huge gap that needs to be sealed to keep the outside elements out of your building! When operating the door any slight movement from left to right will cause irregular gaps that are challenging to seal! The tilt-up door require two seals on both ends of the door. One seal mounts to the vertical column the other seal mounts to the doorframe. Both seals will be rubbing against each other when opening or closing. By design this door rotates as it opens - the doorframe rolls up and tilts inward into the building and the bottom tilts outward; both seals will be rubbing against each other as the door opens and closes. Maintaining a good seal can be a real challenge; keeping the weather seals intact and in place with every cycle!
The large tilt-up doors can move left to right inconsistently when closing causing irregular gaps along the vertical edges, header and sill. The tilt-up door requires weather seals at the top and bottom, with double seals on the sides.
“My neighbor has an external truss in the middle of the door - when I taxi between the hangars, I have to watch out for the external trusses because they are at wing height”
Others companies ship their doors broken down as a bolt-together kit; a giant Erector Set with lots of bolts, small parts and cables to deal with! If by chance the kit is missing components or not assembled correctly it's gonna cost somebody extra time and money! Usually it ends up costing the end-user more when that happens!
Installation of bolts and cables on a moving doorframe is critical and is all up to the erector to do a good job. Are all the bolts tight? Did you miss any? Do I have the doorframe square? Did I bolt the truss in place? This all sounds like a real timely undertaking to install a kit door! Kit doors may save manufacturing time, but add more time for the installers to assemble the door at the job site! Schweiss doors are pre-assembled, pre-welded and delivered pre-hung within its own doorframe for easy installation.
Will a kit door be as strong as an all-welded doorframe? Welds never work loose and are a much stronger and permanent connections - welds never need to be reinstalled or tightened. Schweiss doorframe members are shop-welded, the doors are delivered pre-hung within their own doorframe for easy install.
The Schweiss hinge has a Robust design over tilt-up hydraulic doors that have no hinges! Schweiss Hydraulic Doors are designed with heavy-duty hinges that help carry the entire weight of the door when opening and closing! The advantage of heavy-duty hinges on a moving doorframe is that they distribute the weight of the doorframe evenly across the subframe header to give the door stability in all positions. By having the hinge run across the entire top of the door, the whole door is supported! It's all about surface area. Schweiss hinges help spread the forces over a broader portion of the doorframe and header lowering the stresses that are transfered to the hydraulic cylinders and components of the door!
Power Up And Power Down A Solid Connection Door Will Go Up & Come Down Evenly
The hydraulic cylinders on Schweiss doors that raise and lower the door are connected to the doorframe between two vertical frame members. These vertical frame members balance the weights and forces on the hydraulic cylinders. Spherical bearings are also used to accommodate any flexing, making a strong and safe connection! Schweiss includes 6 to 24 hinges ( depending on the door size ) that are connected to the doorframe to help carry the weights and loads of the door! Schweiss doors utilize hinges to provide a strong connection and safe door! Schweiss hydraulic cylinders have a direct force on the doorframe, not on a cantilevered pin that sticks out the side of the doorframe!
“The headroom loss from a tilt-up door when compared to a hydraulic door was a deal breaker for me.”
Schweiss doors are extremely weathertight and designed so the doorframes overlap by two inches on each side column making it easy to seal on the sides of the doorframe. The two hydraulic cylinders pull and power the doorframe securely and seal against the door columns! Unlike most tilt-up doors, Schweiss doors are powered down. Tilt-up doors float down into closed position and the doorframe does not overlap anything, leaving a huge gap that needs to be sealed off resulting in dust and dirt blowing through the gaps and cracks.
Note: Schweiss doorframes overlap the side columns two inches, not allowing any gaps! Doors are easy to seal when the doorframe overlaps the column; it's harder to seal gaps when the doorframes do not overlap the columns!
“It overlaps on the outside of the building, using wind pressure as an advantage. The wind pressure pushes the doorframe into the building columns, creating an even better seal.”